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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.